Fabrics are the materials used to make clothing. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabrics can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly influence the color and shape of clothing.
In the world of clothing, the fabrics of clothing are varied and changing with each passing day. However, in general, high-quality, high-grade fabrics are characterized by comfortable wearing, sweat-absorbent breathability, draping and sturdy, visually noble, and soft touch.
To make clothes that are worn in formal social occasions, you should choose pure cotton, pure wool, pure silk, and pure hemp. Most of the garments made from these four pure natural fabrics are of a higher grade. Sometimes, clothing made of pure leather is also allowed.
In the world of clothing, the fabrics of clothing are varied and changing with each passing day. However, in general, high-quality, high-grade fabrics are characterized by comfortable wearing, sweat-absorbent breathability, draping and sturdy, visually noble, and soft touch. To make clothes that are worn in formal social occasions, you should choose pure cotton, pure wool, pure silk, and pure hemp. Most of the garments made from these four pure natural fabrics are of a higher grade. Sometimes, clothing made of pure leather is also allowed.
We will briefly introduce the styling characteristics of different material fabrics and the application in fashion design as follows.
1. Soft fabrics Soft fabrics are generally light and thin, with a good drape, smooth lines and a natural stretch of clothing. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with loose fabrics and soft hemp fabrics. Soft knit fabrics often use straight-line succinct shapes to express the graceful curves of the human body in the design of clothing; silk, hemp and other fabrics are more loose and pleated effect, showing the flow of fabric lines.
2. The cool type of fabric is quite cool and has a clear line and a sense of volume, which can form a full outline of clothing. Commonly used are cotton cloth, polyester cotton cloth, corduroy, linen and various medium-thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics. These fabrics can be used to highlight the design of garments, such as suits and suits.
3. Glossy fabric Glossy fabric has a smooth surface and reflects light, giving it a sparkling glow. Such fabrics include satin-structured fabrics. Most commonly used in night dresses or stage performances, it produces a gorgeous and dazzling visual effect. Glossy fabrics have a wide range of freedom in the performance of the dress, and can have a simple design or a more exaggerated style.
4. Thick and heavy fabrics Thick and heavy fabrics are thick and scratched, resulting in a stable styling effect, including all kinds of thick woolen and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of shape expansion, and it is not appropriate to use pleats and piles too much. The A and H shapes are most suitable in the design.
5. The transparent fabric is light and transparent, with an elegant and mysterious artistic effect. Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, etc., such as georgette, satin strips, chemical fiber lace. In order to express the transparency of the fabric, the lines are naturally full, and the H-shaped and round-shaped design shapes are varied.
Below, we will give a brief introduction to the characteristics of common apparel fabrics.
1. Cotton cloth is the general term for all kinds of cotton textiles. It is used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. It has the advantage of being easy to keep warm, soft, close-fitting, hygroscopic and breathable. Its shortcomings are that it is easy to shrink, easy to wrinkle, and the appearance is not very crisp and beautiful, and it must be ironed frequently when wearing.
2. A linen is a fabric made of various hemp plant fibers such as hemp, linen, ramie, jute, sisal, and abaca. It is generally used to make casual wear and work clothes, and it is currently used to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are extremely high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction and good gas permeability. Its shortcoming is that it is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance is rough and blunt.
3. Silk is a general term for various silk fabrics made from silk as raw materials. Like cotton, it has many varieties and different personalities. It can be used to make a variety of garments, especially for making women's clothing. Its strengths are light, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, elegant and comfortable. Its shortcoming is that it is prone to wrinkles, easy to absorb, not strong enough, and faded faster.
4, woolen wool is also called wool, it is a general term for fabrics woven with various types of wool and cashmere. It is usually used to make regular, upscale clothing such as dresses, suits, and coats. Its advantages are anti-wrinkle and abrasion resistance, soft hand feeling, elegant and crisp, flexible and warm. Its main disadvantage is that washing is more difficult, and it is not suitable for making summer clothes.
5. Leather is an animal fur fabric made by tanning. It is mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is the leather, which is the leather that has been dehaired. The second is suede, which is treated leather with a belt. Its advantages are light and warm, and elegant. Its shortcomings are expensive, high requirements for storage and care, so it is not suitable for popularization.
6. Chemical fiber is the abbreviation of chemical fiber. It is a textile made from a polymer compound as a raw material. Usually it is divided into two major categories of artificial fiber and synthetic fiber. Their common advantages are bright colors, soft texture, overhanging, smooth and comfortable. Their disadvantages are wear resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, and poor gas permeability, which are easily deformed by heat and are prone to static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, but the overall grade is not high, it is difficult to be elegant.
7. Blending is a fabric made by mixing natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain ratio and can be used to make various garments. Its strength is that it absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber, and avoids their respective shortcomings as much as possible, and is relatively inexpensive in value, so it is very popular.
This chapter mainly introduces the knowledge, characteristics and identification methods of these major types of apparel fabrics.
Section 1 Identification of the composition of the fabric The simple method of identifying the composition of the fabric is the combustion method. The method is to draw a cloth containing warp and weft yarn at the seam edge of the garment, ignite it with fire, observe the state of the burning flame, smell the smell after burning the cloth, and see the remaining matter after burning, thereby judging Whether it matches the fabric component marked on the durability label of the garment to distinguish the authenticity of the fabric component.
First, cotton fiber and hemp fiber cotton fiber and hemp fiber are just near the flame, burning, burning quickly, the flame is yellow, blue smoke. The difference between the two smells of burning and the ash after burning is that the cotton burns to emit a paper smell, and the hemp burns to give off the ash smell of grass; after burning, the cotton has very little powder ash, which is black or gray, and the hemp produces a small amount of grayish white powder ash.
Second, the wool fiber and the silk hair are exposed to fire and smoke. When burning, the foaming is slow, and the burning odor is emitted. After burning, the ash is mostly shiny black spherical particles, and the fingers are crushed. The silk huddled in a fire, and the burning speed was slower, accompanied by a squeaking sound, which gave off the burning smell of the hair. After burning, it formed a dark brown globular ash, and the handcuffs were broken.
Third, nylon and polyester nylon, the name of the polyamide fiber, the near flame is quickly curled into a white gel, melted and blister in the flame, burning without flame, leaving the flame difficult to continue burning, exudes celery flavor, The light brown melt is not easily ground after cooling. Polyester fiber name is easy to ignite, and it is melted near the flame. When burning, it emits black smoke when it melts. It has a yellow flame and emits an aromatic odor. After burning, the ash is a dark brown block and can be broken with fingers.
4. Acrylic fiber and polypropylene fiber acrylic fiber Polyacrylonitrile fiber, softened and melted near fire, black smoke after the fire, the flame is white, burns quickly after the flame, emits the bitter smell of the fire meat, and the burnt ash is an irregular black block. The handcuffs are fragile. Polypropylene fiber, polypropylene fiber, near the flame is melted, flammable, burning slowly from the fire and black smoke, the upper end of the flame is yellow, the lower end is blue, emitting oily smell, after burning, the ash is hard round light yellow brown granules, hand æ» easy broken.
V. Vinyl and polyvinyl chloride Vinylon, the scientific name of polyvinyl formal fiber, is not easy to ignite, and the near flame melts and shrinks. When burning, the top has a little flame. When the fiber melts into a gelatinous flame, it has a thick black smoke and a bitter smell. After burning, black bead-like particles are left and can be crushed by fingers. Polyvinyl chloride fiber, difficult to burn, is extinguished from the fire, the flame is yellow, the lower end of the green white smoke, the pungent pungent smell of spicy and sour, after burning, the ash is dark brown irregular lumps, the fingers are not easy to smash.
Sixth, spandex and fluorocarbon spandex scientific name polyurethane fiber, near the fire side of the edge burning, the flame is blue when burning, leaving the fire to continue to melt, emitting a special irritating odor, after burning, the ash is soft fluffy black gray. Fluorine fiber PTFE fiber, ISO organization called it fluorite fiber, near flame only melt, difficult to ignite, not burning, edge flame is blue-green carbonization, melting and decomposition, gas is toxic, the melt is hard round black Beads. Fluorinated fibers are commonly used in the textile industry to make high performance sewing threads.
7. Viscose fiber and copper ammonium fiber viscose fiber are flammable, burning speed is fast, the flame is yellow, and the smell of burning paper is emitted. After burning, the ash is less, and it is smooth and twisted with light gray or grayish white powder. The common name of copper ammonium fiber is tiger kapok, which burns near the flame. It burns fast, the flame is yellow, and it smells sour. After burning, there is very little ash, only a small amount of grayish black ash.
Section 2 Identification of pure wool fabrics Pure natural fabrics have a soft natural color and good warmth. They are the fabric of choice for high-end suits and coats. But now there are more and more wool-like fabrics. With the improvement of textile technology, it has reached the level that most customers can hardly identify, but the color, warmth, and feel are far less than pure wool fabrics. Here are a few ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothing and fabrics.
First, the hand touches. Pure wool fabrics usually feel smooth, long-haired fabrics are smooth and smooth, and the hair is tingling. Blended or purified fiber, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
Second, look at the color. The color of the pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and without old feeling. In contrast, blended or purified fabrics, or darker, or flashy.
Third, look at flexibility. Tighten the object by hand and then let go immediately to see the fabric elasticity. The pure wool fabric has a high rebound rate and can be quickly restored to its original state, while the blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, and most of them have obvious wrinkles or slow recovery.
Fourth, the combustion method identification. Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. The smell of pure wool fiber is like burning hair. The smell of chemical fiber fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the particles after burning, the more chemical fiber components are present.
Five, single root identification. The hair of all animals is scaled under the microscope. If it is a long-wool fabric, just take a hairy image and move it up or down a few times. (To master this technique, you can take a hair first. Test), if it is a common fabric, take a yarn, cut 2 cm of two pieces into one fiber and put it in the palm of your hand to see if they will move. Section III Identification of woolen raw materials. At present, the animal hair fibers used in the wool fabrics on the market are roughly sheep wool, mountain wool, camel wool and rabbit hair.
First, the sheep's hair, the largest daily use of sweaters, wool, felt, etc. are mainly sheep's hair in sheep. In the weaving industry, because of the largest amount of sheep wool, "wool" has become the abbreviation for sheep wool.
The countries with more sheep wool production in the world are Australia, CIS, New Zealand, Argentina and China. The count and number of wool are the basis for assessing wool grade and quality. The higher the count, the better the quality. The higher the grade, the worse the quality.
The "Australian hairs" that have always been admired by the sheep's hair belong to the merino sheep, which are produced in Australia and hence the name. Its fine and long hair is the best quality of wool sheep. Others such as New Zealand, South America, European countries, Southern Alps, etc. are raised and have a good reputation in the world.
Selangor is also a common species. Selangor was originally called Shetland wool and was named after the Shetland Islands in Scotland. Because Selangor has fluff as the main body and contains a lot of coarse hair and bristles, this natural coarse and fine mixture has formed the characteristic of fullness and fluffiness, soft and not delicate, and good gloss and elasticity. Has a rough style. However, due to the low production of Selangor, the supply is in short supply. The so-called "Snowland sweaters" on the market are mostly made of New Zealand's semi-fine wool. Some of them are called "Snow Lan Mao" sweaters. The selling price is less than 100 yuan or even only tens of yuan. In fact, it is a product like the imitation of the Selangor style. Some "Snow Orchid" is made of various kinds of wool. Only thick wool can be made and the price is cheaper.
There are also lambskin hairs that are cheap and popular with consumers. They are actually lambskins, which have a thicker feel and are mostly made of wool.
1. Mountain wool Mountain wool refers to the coarse and dead hair cut from the mountain wool. Generally, the fine hair of the mountain wool is very short, it can't be spun, the rough hair can only be made into a brush, the brush and the like, except for the mohair. Mohair, Angora wool, is produced in Turkey's Angola province, North America and South Asia. It is a high-quality wool fiber with a smooth surface, little curling, long and thick, silky soft and strong luster, excellent back. Elasticity, abrasion resistance and high strength are ideal raw materials for weaving jacquard blankets, plush, sleek coats, artificial fur and other high-grade fabrics. The thick, needle-knitted mohair sweater, wrapped in soft, silky fibers, forms a noble, lively and rugged clothing style that is loved by people. The Zhongweishan wool in the northwest of China also belongs to the mohair. However, in the market, some people have called the fluffy-style acrylic bulked yarn "mohair" for sale, which is misunderstood. Such acrylic bulked yarn can only be called "imitation mohair" at best.
Second, alpaca hair alpaca comes from an animal called "alpaca" (also known as "Albaka"), which is mainly grown in the Peruvian Andes. The Andes are at an altitude of 4,500 meters. The temperature difference between day and night is very high. At night, it is -20 to -18 °C, while during the day, it is 15 to 18 °C. The sunlight is strong, the atmosphere is thin, and the wind is cold. Alpacas that live in such a harsh environment are of course able to withstand extreme temperature changes. Alpaca hair not only moisturizes, but also effectively resists solar radiation. Alpaca fiber contains a medullary cavity visible under the microscope, so its warmth is better than wool, cashmere and mohair.
In addition, alpaca fiber has more than 17 kinds of natural color: from white to black, and a series of different shades of brown, gray, is the most abundant fiber in the special animal fiber. The "Albaka" we see on the market refers to alpaca; and "Su Li" is one of alpaca and refers to adult alpaca, with longer fibers and beautiful colors; often said The "beibei" is an alpaca cub, and the relative fibers are thinner and softer. The alpaca hair feels slippery and keeps warm.
Third, mohair mohair refers to Angora wool, mainly produced in South Africa, which is characterized by thicker fibers, smaller curls and better gloss. The mohair fabric feels smooth and has a glossy finish. Mohair and alpaca fabrics are as short and smooth. Section IV Introduction of Silk
Silk fabrics are generally divided into two categories: silk and silk fabrics. Labels on silk fabrics, how do you identify the digital code on the label? These numbers have a total of five. The first digit represents the raw material used in the commodity; the second digit represents the fabric organization of the merchandise, and the latter is the serial number of the merchandise. Before this number, the uppercase English letters are used to represent the origin of the merchandise, from the number of the silk product, The raw materials and origin of the product can be identified.
Silk material code :
"1" stands for silk, including mulberry and mulberry silk, which accounts for more than 50% of mulberry interweave varieties, Shuanggong silk, and mulberry silk;
"2" stands for synthetic fiber;
"3" stands for blending natural fibers with short fibers;
“4†stands for silk;
"5" stands for rayon;
"6" represents the interlacing of filaments of more than two raw materials, or the interlacing of filaments with short filaments;
"7"" stands for the noodle class.
Silk product origin code: B for Beijing, C for Sichuan, D for Liaoning, E for Hubei, G for Guangdong, H for Zhejiang, J for Jiangxi, K for Jiangsu, M for Fujian, N for Guangxi, Q for Shaanxi, S For Shanghai, T for Tianjin, V for Henan, W for Anhui, and X for Hunan. Section 5 Introduction of Leather
"Leather" is a common word in the leather products market. It is a customary way for people to distinguish synthetic leather from natural leather. In the concept of consumers, "leather" also has a non-false meaning. In fact, the leather is leather, which is mainly processed from mammalian skin.
There are many kinds of leather, various varieties, different structures, different qualities, and the price is very different. Therefore, leather is a general term for all natural leather and an ambiguous mark on the commodity market.
Natural leather is mainly divided into pig leather, cow leather, sheep leather, horse leather, enamel leather and kangaroo leather, and a small amount of fish leather, reptile leather, amphibious leather, ostrich leather and the like. Among them, cow leather is divided into yellow cattle leather, buffalo leather, yak leather and yak leather; sheep leather is divided into sheep leather and goat leather. According to its level, there are first layer leather and two layers of leather, of which the first layer leather has full grain leather and shaving leather; the second layer leather has pig two layer leather and cow two layer leather. Among the main types of leather, yellow cattle leather and sheep leather have a flat surface, small pores, and a fine inner structure. The leather body has a good fullness and elasticity, and has good physical properties. Therefore, superior yellow cattle leather and sheep leather are generally used as leather materials for high-grade products, and the price is a higher one among the bulk leathers.
Among the many leather varieties, full-grain leather should top the list, because it is processed from the finest raw material skin with less disability, and the leather surface retains a good natural state. The coating is thin and can show animal skin. Natural beauty of the pattern. It is not only wear-resistant, but also has good gas permeability.
The shaving leather is made by using a leather machine to lightly grind the surface of the leather, then decorating it, and then pressing the corresponding pattern. In fact, it is a “cosmetic†of the natural leather surface with disability or roughness. The leather almost lost its original surface condition, the coating layer was thicker, and the abrasion resistance and air permeability were worse than those of the full grain leather.
The two-layer leather is obtained by splitting the thick skin with a sheet leather machine. The top layer is used for full grain leather or shaving leather, and the second layer is made of two layers of leather after finishing or filming. Its fastness, It has poor wear resistance and is the cheapest one of its kind.
First, the feel : that is, touch the surface of the leather by hand, if it is smooth, soft, full, elastic feeling is the leather; and the synthetic synthetic leather face is stubborn, rigid, poor softness.
Second, seeing : Observing the real leather surface has clear pores, patterns, yellow cowhide has a relatively fine pores, yak leather has thick and sparse pores, goat skin has fish scale-like pores, pig skin has triangular rough pores, The artificial leather, although it also mimics the pores, is not clear. Here are the characteristics and identification methods of pig leather, horse leather, cow leather and sheep leather: the cow leather surface is fine and the strength is high, which is most suitable for making leather shoes; the sheep leather is light, thin and soft, and is the ideal fabric for leather garments; pig leather The gas permeability and water vapor permeability are good, and it is more suitable for making underwear and children's products; the leather structure of horse leather is relatively tight and the strength is relatively high, and the effect is good for making leather pants and leather boots. In general, the thickness, density and distribution of the pores on the leather surface are the main basis for distinguishing between cow leather, pig leather, horse leather and sheep leather.
Pig leather : The pores on the surface of the leather are round and thick, and extend into the leather obliquely. The pores are arranged in three groups, and the leather surface has many small triangular patterns.
Cow leather : Both yellow cattle leather and buffalo leather are called cow leather, but there are certain differences between the two. The pores on the surface of the yellow cattle leather are round and extend straight into the leather. The pores are tight and even, and the arrangement is irregular, like a starry sky. The pores on the surface of buffalo leather are thicker than that of yellow cattle leather. The number of pores is less than that of yellow cattle leather. The leather quality is slack, which is not as fine as the yellow cattle leather. Horse leather: The pores on the surface of the leather are elliptical, slightly larger than the pores of the yellow cattle leather, and the arrangement is regular.
Sheepskin : The pores of the leather surface are oblate, the pores are clear, and several pieces are grouped together and arranged in a fish scale.
Third, the smell : all real leather has a leather smell; and artificial leather has a strong plastic smell.
4. Ignition : A little bit of fiber is torn off from the back of real leather and artificial leather. After ignition, all the pungent smell is made of artificial leather. Anything that gives off the smell of hair is not leather. The leather logo leather logo is a certification mark registered with the State Administration for Industry and Commerce. The leather products with the leather logo have three characteristics: 1. The product is made of high quality leather; 2. The product is well-made. High-end products; 3, consumers can enjoy good after-sales service by purchasing leather products with leather logo. If you don't use leather products, you can't wear the leather logo. If you want to wear the leather logo, you need to go through the strict examination of the China Leather Industry Association. After approval, you can hang it. The China Leather Industry Association conducts quality inspections every year to ensure product quality.
The registered trademark of the leather logo is an artistic deformation pattern consisting of a whole sheep, a pair of horns and a skin shape. The overall pattern is a circular drum. The center of the pattern has three letters of GLP. It is the abbreviation of the leather product. The color of the main body of the pattern is black on white, and only three letters are red. The meaning of the pattern: cattle, sheep and pigs are the three main natural leather materials of leather products. The pattern is a circular drum. On the one hand, it symbolizes the main processing equipment of the tanning industry. On the other hand, it symbolizes the leather industry rolling forward. development of. Section 6 Knowledge of suit fabrics.
First, the purification of fabric
1. Pure polyester tweed. The surface is smooth and clean, the strip shape is clear, the hand feels very good, cool, easy to wash and dry, easy to fluff after wearing for a long time. It is advisable to do spring and autumn clothes for men and women.
2, polyester sticky tweed (fast bar). Polyester 50~65%, viscose silk 50~35%, strong hair style, full and thick handfeel, good elasticity and low price. Should be men and women spring and autumn clothing.
3. Knitted pure polyester. The texture is soft, the elasticity is good, the appearance is full, crisp, easy to wash and dry. Should be men and women spring and autumn clothing.
4, woollen woolen nickname commonly known as "coarse material", due to the difference in raw material quality, so the gap between the quality of the fabric is also large.
5. What about the coat? There are varieties of flat, velvet, shun, and flower. Rich texture and strong warmth. The quality of the imported wool and the first and second grade domestic wool is better, the surface is smooth, the hand feels smooth and the elasticity is good. The hand made of domestically produced third and fourth grade wool is rough and hard, and there is grabbing the hair. It is advisable to make long and short coats for men and women.
6, Melden. Imported wool or domestic first-grade wool, woven with a small amount of worsted short hair. The face is plump, smooth and flat, the body is tight and firm, flexible, can not afford the ball, does not reveal the bottom. It is advisable to make men's and women's clothing and women's coats.
7. What about the navy? Weaved with first and second grade domestic wool and a small amount of worsted short hair. The surface is fine and soft, and the hand feels firm and elastic. Some products have fluffing. Use with Melden.
8. Uniforms. Use a small amount of finely spun wool and short wool woven with three or four grade domestic wool. The surface is flat, the handle is slightly rough, there is grabbing hair, and it is obviously exposed after wearing for a long time, but it is strong and durable. Should be a uniform.
9, flannel. The surface is mixed with gray and white, the suede has a slight appearance, and the hand feels plump, smooth and elegant. Should be men and women spring and autumn clothing.
10, thick tweed. Made of 1-3 grade domestic wool mixed with some viscose. The face is thick, strong and durable, and has a wide variety of colors. Should be men and women spring and autumn dual-use shirts and high-end children's wear.
Second, mixed textiles
1. Polyester tweed. Among them, polyester is 55%, wool is 45%, the texture is thicker, the hand feels full, the strength is high, the fastness is good, the crispness and the wrinkle resistance are good. It is advisable to make autumn and winter clothing.
2, cool. Among them, polyester 55%, wool 45%, thin material, but strong and durable, with cool, slippery, quite, anti-wrinkle, anti-shrinkage, easy to wash and dry. Should be spring and summer clothing, not suitable for winter clothing.
3, polyester hair sticky flowers. 40% polyester, 30% wool, 30% viscose, fine surface, strong hair feel, clear stripes, crisp, good fastness, low price and economical.
Third, full wool
1. What about Huada? The yarn is fine, the surface is smooth and smooth, the hand feels smooth, rich and elastic, and the lines are straight and full. It is advisable to sew suits, Zhongshan suits and women's tops. The disadvantage is that the knees and the back hips are often easily rubbed.
2, hehe. The pattern is wider, the surface is flatter than Huada, soft to the touch, and flexible. It is not as thick and firm as Huada, and its use is similar to that of Huada.
3, tweed. According to the weight, it can be divided into thin tweed (less than 300g/m) and medium tweed (300~400g/m). The surface is smooth and flat, the color is well-proportioned, the elasticity is good, the pattern is clear, and the variety is varied. It is advisable to do all kinds of jackets and suits for men and women.
4, smell it. The luster is naturally soft, the surface is flat, the surface is short and fine, and the hair is soft. It is advisable to make spring and autumn dual-use shirts and suits.
5, Fan Liding. The yarn is fine, the raw materials are good, but the density is thin, and the surface is smooth and light. Feel smooth, elastic, bright and washable. Suitable for summer clothing and winter cotton
6, Pai Lisi. The gloss is soft, the elasticity is good, the hand feels smooth, the light and cool, and the fastness is not as good as the dynasty. It is most suitable for summer men's and women's clothing.
7, women's clothing. The yarn is thinner, the structure is looser, the hand feels softer, and the elasticity is more, the color is more, and the color is bright. Often used as a female spring and autumn dual-use shirt and cotton jacket face.
8, direct tribute. The density is large, the hand feels thick and soft, the surface is smooth, the gloss is bright, and the elasticity is rich. It is advisable to make coats and Zhongshan suits. Section VII.
First, the classification of the wool yarn is generally divided into two types of knitted yarn (referred to as the wool) and knitted wool (referred to as knitted cashmere), the number of strands, special number and use as the standard of distinction.
Cashmere: The number of shares is more than three shares (including three shares), but the number of shares is more than 6 (including 6).
Knitted velvet: The number of shares is two shares, the number of shares is less than 6 pieces, or the finished product is single-strand, which is specially used for knitwear processing, all of which are knitted velvet.
Second, the number of woolen yarn knitting and knitting yarn are divided into two categories, woollen and woollen, represented by Arabic numerals. When purchasing, the first Arabic numerals indicated on the wool and trademark indicate: (4 categories)
0-- worsted wool (sometimes often omitted)
1-- roving
2--Worsted Knitted Wool (This code is sometimes not written)
3--The second Arabic numerals of the woollen knitting yarn, representing the number of the raw yarn, that is, the type of raw materials selected, a total of 10 categories, the code name is :
0-- Cashmere or cashmere is blended with other fibers.
1--heterogeneous hair (also known as national wool, including most domestic wool, the difference between wool fiber and length)
2--Homogeneous hair (also known as outer wool, including imported wool and a few domestic wools, the difference in thickness and length of wool fibers is small)
3--Homogeneous wool and viscose blend
4--Homogeneous and heterogeneous wool blend
5--heterogeneous wool and viscose blend
6--Homogeneous wool and synthetic fiber blend
7--hetero-matrix and synthetic fiber blend
8--Purified fiber and its blend of each other
9--Other raw materials.
The synthetic fibers in the codes "6", "7" and "8" listed above generally refer to acrylic fibers and nylon fibers.
When the first digit is 3, the second digit represents the type of raw material:
0--soft cashmere or cashmere blended with other fibers (except nylon);
1--white cashmere
2--green cashmere
3--purple cashmere
4-- Cashmere and nylon blend
5--short hair
6--Rabbit (Lamb)
7--Camel
8--牦牛绒
9--Other
At present, the line density code in the article number is still expressed in metric counts. The old system is still used here, but it is converted into special numbers for reference after the metric count.
The 3rd and 4th digits of the article number are connected to represent the metric number of the single yarn of the product. One piece of wool is made up of multiple yarns, and most of the yarns currently produced are 4 yarns. In the case of a single-strand thick yarn, it is generally about 6---8.5 gongs (167---118 tex), and the single-strand fine velvet thread is generally about 16--19 gongs (63---53 tex). Most of the knitted velvet is made up of two yarns. The fineness of the worsted knitted velvet is generally 20 gongs (50 tex) or more, and the woollen woven velvet single strands are 12--21 gongs (83--- Between -48 tex), there are also up to 36 gongs (28 tex), and the single yarn yarns are generally expressed in special numbers.
The single yarn count is a two-integer fine pile or knitted pile, and the count number indicates its count. For example, the 18/4 (56 texX4) fine pile has a count code of 18. A single yarn count consists of a one-in-one and one-digit fraction of a thick pile. The count code will omit the decimal point, such as 8.0 cm/4 (125 texX4) and 7.5 mm/4 (133 texX4) thick pile. The count codes are 80 and 75 respectively. According to the above description of the composition and meaning of the knitted pile number of the pile, the following examples are as follows :
216----All-wool fine-spun fine-spun yarn of the same hair, 16-piece (63 tex) single yarn. The single yarn is 4 metric (250 tex).
880----Purified acrylic worsted yarn produced by the fine spinning, 8 kg (125 tex) for single yarn and 2 metric (500 tex) for single yarn.
1365---coarse wool/sticky wool yarn blended with homogenous wool and viscose fiber, single yarn yarn of 6.5 male (154 tex.) single wool yarn of 1.6 male (625 tex).
2826-----Warned knitted yarn, purified fiber yarn (currently mostly acrylic expanded yarn), single yarn is 26 male (38.5. tex), single yarn is 13 male (77 tex).
2248-----Warned homogenous wool knitted yarn, single yarn is 48 gong (21 tex). Single yarn is 24 gong (42 tex).
3028-----Warned knit wool, blended with cashmere or cashmere and other fibers (except nylon), with 28 yarns (36 tex) for single yarn and 14 metric (72 tex) for single yarn. .
3718-----brown-knitted cashmere yarn, single-strand yarn is 18 metric (56 tex). Single yarn is 9 metric (112 tex). 3816-----Warlen yak velvet knit wool, 16 kg (63 tex) for single yarn and 8 gong (126 tex) for single yarn.
In the trial production of new varieties, the "4" should be added before the specified article number to distinguish the old varieties, and will not be added after the formal production. For example: "4122.5" stands for new varieties, heterogeneous wool knitted velvet, single yarn It is 22.5 metric tons (44.4 tex).
For wool yarn manufacturers, because the raw materials come from different regions, in some trial products, although the raw materials used, the spinning method and the spinning single-strand special number are the same, due to the difference in the quality of the raw materials themselves or the grade ratio, There is a difference, the "4" is not added in front of the article number, and the suffix is ​​"01", "02", "03", etc. The sequence numbers are different. For example, "62602" represents a worsted knit of wool/nitrile blend. The velvet, single yarn yarn has a fineness of 26 metric tons (38.5 tex), which is the second variation of the 626 variety.
Third, the yarn color yarn wool sweater factory currently used most of the yarn is colored yarn, even if the white yarn into the shirt dyeing, often have a prescribed color code to indicate which color, and in the same chromatogram, There are also many different colors, such as red, red, red, purple, red, pink, pink, pink, pink, light pink, etc., some as many as a dozen, due to the different characteristics of the fiber There is also a difference in the same color. For this reason, it is necessary to have a uniform code and name to distinguish it. At present, a unified color version (referred to as a color version or a color card) is used to uniformly compare colorimetric colors. Developed by China Textile Import and Export Corporation Shanghai Foreign Trade Corporation Clothing Branch and Shanghai Maoma Textile Industry Co., Ltd., it is called “China Wool Knitted Color Cardâ€. This color card is unified as the woolen sweater factory and woolen mill in China. The color version used is compared to the colorimetric, and the color number is composed of 1 Latin alphabet and 3 Arabic numerals.
The first digit of the color number is the Latin alphabet, which indicates the raw material used for the yarn, and the letter code is
N------ wool variety "old color version W and H".
WB----Acrylic 50/wool 50, acrylic 60/wool 40, acrylic 70/wool 30
KW----Acrylic 90/Wool 10.
K------Acrylic (including acrylic beads, acrylic 90/nylon 10, acrylic 70/nylon 30.)
L------Sheep hair (short hair)
R------- cashmere
M------ yak velvet
C------ camel
A------ rabbit hair
The second digit of the AL-----50% long rabbit fur-colored dyed color number uses the Allah number, which represents the chromatographic category of the wool yarn.
0----white spectrum (bleached and white)
1----yellow and orange spectrum
2----Red and Qinglian Chromatography
3----blue and navy blue chromatography
4----Green Spectrum
5----Brown and Camel Chromatography
6----grey and black chromatography
7-9----The 3rd and 4th digits of the color-coded color number indicate the shades of the specific color in the chromatogram. They are also represented by Arabic numerals. In principle, the smaller the number, the lighter the color, the larger the number. , indicating that the darker the dyed color, generally from 01 to 12 from the lightest to the medium dark, and 12 or more is the darker color. For example :
01 indicates the lightest one in the chromatogram
0 represents white spectrum
n is wool pure spinning
N001 is used in the factory as "special white hairy cashmere."
Another example :
12 indicates a medium dark color in the chromatogram
2 stands for red and blue
k is acrylic knitted velvet (acrylic bulked yarn)
Another example :
15 indicates a darker color in the chromatogram
5 represents brown and camel chromatography
c is camel hair yarn
In some regions or products exported to certain countries, the old color number is still used. It consists of 4 Arabic numerals. The 1st digit replaces the Latin alphabet. It still indicates the code of the raw materials used in the yarn. The raw material code indicates that the second digit is also the chromatographic category, and the third and fourth digits also indicate the depth of the specific color in the chromatogram. 2. Morphology of wool fibers Hair fibers are fibers obtained from animals.æ¯›çº¤ç»´æ ¹æ®å…¶æ¥æºä¸åŒï¼Œå¯åˆ†ä¸ºè®¸å¤šå“ç§ï¼Œå¦‚羊毛ã€ç¾Šç»’ã€å…”毛ã€ç‰¦ç‰›æ¯›ç‰ï¼Œå…¶ä¸ä»¥ç»µç¾Šæ¯›æœ€ä¸ºå¸¸ç”¨ã€‚在显微镜下观察，我们能得到下述结果。
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